You’ve never seen a fruit shop quite like this one

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Hushed reverence, fruit displayed like jewellery and white-gloved salesmen: you can bust your budget on fruit at specialist Japanese fruit stores.

The Japanese melon season was particularly good this year. A pair of melons from Yubari in Hokkaido sold at auction in May for 3.5 million yen .

Such extravagance is usually corporate and attracts press coverage. Still, you can bust your budget on fruit at a more modest – but still outrageous – price in specialist Japanese fruit stores. I could buy six different fruits tied with ribbon and separated in a box by dividers like truffles – except if I did, I’d have no money left for my hotel bill. All the fruit is perfectly shaped, perfumed, plump, blemish-free and picked at the optimal moment.

Like French wine, expensive fruit is labelled with a protected geographic indicator. In Takano’s, information labels tell you where the fruit is from and who has grown it and, like wine labels, describe the flavour.The Japanese revere fruit. It’s more likely eaten after an elegant kaiseki meal than as a snack. Fruit is offered on Buddhist and Shinto altars and is a symbol of respect given as a prestigious gift.

 

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