Whether in-person, by midday email or a 3pm text, it is the question of our times. We ask or are asked it every day and often we struggle to answer.
Even bolognese – our saviour in isolation – is a dish that takes a dozen ingredients and a couple of hours to make properly. Even in big batches it's not a dish that was ever intended for everyday cooking but to us it's our baseline. We've lost sight of cooking and eating simply, and it's a problem that started long ago.
Fuelled by government subsidies in electorally strategic US states, local farms and diversified ecosystems gave way to factory-farmed monoculture. But now instead of eating corn as corn and soybeans and soybeans, those plants were able to be turned into sugars and fats and assembled into foods that barely resembled their sources.
Despite how this may sound, I don't intend this as an assault on processed food. I love a packet of chips and an ice-cream as much as the next person. I adore cheese of every slice. I'll happily sprinkle MSG into a dish and I had SPAM for dinner just last week. Treats and snacks have always been part of life.My point about processed food is just to illustrate how our relationship with food changed without us even realising it.
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