In Principe, the leaves are on the move. Almost every road on this island has been carved out of the jungle, and the jungle seems eager to reclaim the lost ground. Trees and brush and vines press relentlessly against the dirt edges of the roads, their leaves pushing towards the road like dogs straining at a leash.
The country gained independence in 1975, when a newly democratic Portugal divested itself of its colonies. For decades, nothing much happened in the tiny nation – until Mark Shuttleworth came along and decided that a sustainable tourism industry was the country's best hope for escaping poverty. For Sao Tome and Principe, that process has been a lot more precipitate, thanks to South African billionaire Mark Shuttleworth. The software developer, who also became the first African in space when he bought passage on a Soyuz rocket, has dedicated himself to helping the country develop in a sustainable manner. After consulting experts in design, forestry and agriculture, he bought one of Sao Tome's few existing hotels and has recently opened three others on Principe.
Praia Sundy's staff are excellent guides to the island. Daily activities include walks to waterfalls and hikes to nearby beaches, or you can join a boat trip and go beach hopping. The beaches are simply spectacular, their edges shaded by magnificent Indian almond trees and their sands washed by green waters so clear that when you swim out, you can see sea urchins on the ocean floor. The most remarkable thing about them, however, is that you are unlikely to ever encounter another person.
One thing Santo Antonio does have is restaurants. Four, to be precise. Without any signage, they are indistinguishable from the neighbouring houses. Rosina's restaurant, where we have lunch, is on the covered verandah of Rosina's house, where she has set out a couple of plastic tables with assorted chairs. There is a view over Rosina's neat garden across to the neighbouring house, where a car is rusting in the yard.
"At first, they handed out rice for free, but then they began to charge for it," he tells me."I think it was a plot to get us addicted." He has no patience with locals who complain about the cost of rice."We have so many other things to eat; all you have to do is go out into the forest."
I’ve hear of them. Former Portuguese colonies. Some Europeans holiday there
humans will fuck it up just as soon as they can get there
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