As monstrous surf pummelled Sydney’s northern beaches and howling rain storms battered the city last weekend, Ian Turner and his hardy University of NSW research team were in their element.
The researchers, though, were not your regular storm chasers. The university has operated a permanent monitoring site overlooking the famously erosive sands of the Collaroy-Narrabeen beach strip since 2004.It's where an "infinity pool" was dislodged during a powerful east coast low in 2016. That pool now forms part of the submerged temporary seawall aimed at shoring up the sands during big wave events.
Crucial to advancing the three-year project is data, and last week's storms provided both a wealth of information but also "heart palpitations" for the scientists watching, Turner says. "One of the things that we're heavily focused on this year is evaluating how good - that is how reliable - that [forecasting] is," Turner says.Turner's UNSW colleague Mitchell Harley says an accurate warning system would need to anticipate many factors, such as the wave intensity, including the length between waves, known as the wave period.
Principal research scientist at the bureau Diana Greenslade says her agency has developed a high-resolution wave model that provides improved forecasts close to the shore. "The existing operational wave model provides model output at around 10 kilometre spatial resolution," she says. "This research model provides output at around 250 metres resolution near the shore."
For the past century or longer, councils and home owners have built most of their infrastructure and houses in locations shielded by southerly headlands. These tend to be vulnerable to storms coming in from elsewhere.
From this photo the land on the right, with trees, is not so effected as the land with buildings. Shows how essential coastal vegetation is in preventing erosion. Long live mangroves
No one living close to coast will even move their arse. However, will be first to whinge & put hand out for Govt financial assistance.
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