Stuffed crocs and Lego dinosaurs? No thanks Brissie, I’ll keep walking

I recently stayed at a private club in Brisbane where the dress code specifically forbade short-sleeved safari suits. The lobby had a nine-metre ceiling. Its lower half was clad in lustrous rainforest timbers and in it lurked a massive estuarine crocodile wearing a pained expression, some Jazz-Age taxidermist having force-fed it a barrel.

Its art gallery, if you can find an entrance, holds almost nothing. Its museum has been overrun by Lego dinosaurs leering down at Japanese tourists as if at postcoital snacks. All that’s missing is a Lego Attenborough fossicking among their Lego stool to see if the bricks they’re shitting contain Japanese/English phrasebooks. The place will never be accused of cultural theft by the Greeks or Indigenous Australians ... or anyone else.

I like walking with people. But I love walking alone in the bush – it’s the only time it will come alive for you. Certain thoughts can only be thought, certain ghosts can only be seen, while alone. The rainforest is full of phantoms, of stories, connections, sounds, smells, and sights – but to be cognisant of them you must give yourself over to the here and now of this great living thing.Roots reach down from the sky in search of the ground, vines reach up for the sky in search of the sun.

We stopped at a cliff top and below us valleys ran away tessellated with tiny oblongs of green and yellow crop and pasture, until, at a certain altitude, the tessellations gave way to dark forests and other ranges. Queensland is endless. A pair of eagles sailed past, insolently composed as an angry falcon swooped them.

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