Ever get the feeling you’ve bitten off more than you can chew? That’s happening to me, right now, as I research moussaka, a dish I had thought was comfortably Greek – and in the eyes of many Greek people, it probably is – and yet it is one with a history that’s far more complex, and possibly even controversial. We’ll get to that below.
If you thought the history of moussaka was simple and settled, you may not have been reading this column too long. So many of the world’s classic dishes have a past as murky as a miso soup, and passionately fought over. Here’s what’s commonly accepted: the dish that would go on to inspire moussaka was invented in what is now Iraq, a recipe having been found in a 13th-century text called. This eggplant-heavy dish was then introduced to the Ottoman Empire, which at that point took in Greece.
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