n sweltering mid-afternoon heat, children splash in the clear water of the canal that threads through town as elderly neighbours look on from rocking chairs on the porches of their sun-washed houses. Butterflies spring from every bush, sometimes fluttering together in kaleidoscopes.
Some locals feel betrayed that the series was not filmed there. Instead, it was shot in the industrial city of Ibagué, 430 miles to the south. “We’re disappointed that Netflix decided not to film here, but we all know that anyone inspired by the series will have to come to Aracataca, as the heart of Macondo lies here,” said Robinson Mulford, a local high-school teacher.
Sitting on his porch surrounded by his family, the 93-year-old recalled a teenage Gabo selling encyclopedias door-to-door so they could buy rum and listen to vallenato, the raucous accordion-based music of Colombia’s coastal region. “I told him that his other books are better – and he agreed!” said Noches.
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