Meat-free barbecue: Ben Allen’s recipes for flame-grilled vegetables

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I love fire cooking, because that lick of flame turns even simple ingredients into something greater than the sum of their parts. You can take something as ordinary as a leek, say, and transform it over hot coals into a dish that is unrecognisably delicious.

Ben Allen’s flame-grilled winners : barbecued hispi with gribiche and cayenne, grilled chestnut mushrooms with habanero, lemon and rocket pesto, and charred leeks with pecorino sauce and mushroom pickle.Ben Allen’s flame-grilled winners : barbecued hispi with gribiche and cayenne, grilled chestnut mushrooms with habanero, lemon and rocket pesto, and charred leeks with pecorino sauce and mushroom pickle.

For the mushroom pickle, put the vinegar, sugar and 500ml water in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the chestnut mushrooms, garlic and chilli, simmer for five to 10 minutes, until the liquid reduces by a third, then strain into a clean jar. Lay the leeks directly on the hot coals and cook, turning occasionally, for 10-15 minutes, until the flesh inside is bubbling . Lift the leeks off the coals and, when cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the very charred exterior layers. Cut each leek into 10cm lengths, then barbecue again, this time on a grill rack, for a minute or two, just so they take on a little colour.

Boil six of the eggs to your desired level of runny yolk , then run under the cold tap to stop them cooking more and leave to cool. Meanwhile, roast the peppercorns in a sieve balanced over the barbecue coals, until you hear them crack, then leave to cool and transfer to a pepper mill.

 

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