I’m a pizza snob, but I’ve got no right to be. Brought up on Pizza Hut’s thin n’ crispy ham and pineapples as a kid, it got no better as a teen in Adelaide, where Dino’s pan-style pizzas were delivered in sunshine-yellow hatchbacks with a giant novelty red phone handset on top.
But here at this flagship, tavern-style Lou Malnati’s pizzeria in Chicago’s historic inner-city Gold Coast district is where the animosity ends.The pizza is delivered with dramatic flair. It is carved into slices tableside as if you were in a fine-dining restaurant, plated up, and served to diners rather than helping yourself.
Cheese has a new place, now as the first layer across the base, rather than the top – because these dense pies take more than an hour to cook, and the mozzarella cheese from the US cheese capital of Wisconsin needs to retain its moisture. Either way, the result is a palate-pleasing mesh of molten cheese and tomato that reminds me of my childhood visits to Italian restaurants when I would request extra puttanesca sauce with my pasta, as I always preferred the savoury tomato topping to its vehicle. It’s moreish enough to ask for a second serve, but any more than that would be sheer gluttony.Business partners Ike Sewell and Ric Riccardo are credited with creating the pizza back in 1943.
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