The nation relies on tourism, yet many local people feel the right to enjoy these timeless places is being denied themt was mid-August 1997; I was in my 20s and heading from Athens to the Aegean island of Sifnos with three friends. We hopped on a ship at the port of Piraeus and sailed out into the blue waters. Arriving late in the evening, we spent that first night on the beach, close to the port of Kamares.
Next morning, after breakfast, we found a little villa to rent in the middle of nowhere. Luck? Not really. That was the norm then, the way we lived and holidayed: no planning, no preparation whatsoever. Giorgos Seferis, Greece’s first Nobel prize-winning poet, got the idea that he would translate The Book of Revelation while on Patmos in the Dodecanese . As Seferis watched the sunrise from Patmos, relentless light devouring the landscape, “everything turned into an abyss”.
For many islanders, and some Greek intellectuals, this was how the Greek islands started to be spoilt. On Astypalaia, in the Dodecanese, I asked a local lad which time of the year he enjoyed best on his island. “Winter, when there are no tourists around,” he said, pointedly, staring at me.
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