03 July 2019 - 05:02A sweeping view of the landscape at Lord’s Guest Lodge near McGregor. Picture: INFINITY STUDIOS/DOMENIC GORIN
That’s the thing about this region: it’s full of surprises. McGregor itself is a tiny microcosm of the wider Robertson-Montagu-Bonnievale triangle which offers much to experience and discover. Or, for those needing to escape to-do lists, the option of just being; a Zen-on-the-Breede, the river the waters of which occasionally flood the valley’s plains, but that nurtures the fertile farms and makes the Langeberg one of SA’s most productive agricultural areas.
Above all, this is food and wine territory. The bend around every meandering country road reveals a signboard to an estate, cellar or co-op, with fine-dining, bistro or picnic venue to match. They celebrate all things vinous with a frenetic, zesty and youthful annual Whacky Wine Weekend, then counterbalance that with a Robertson Slow Food Festival, where the indulgence appeals to slightly older attendees. Everything seems slower here — so this festival must be seriously sedate.
Actually, it feels as though everything is close by, even though you clock up the distances exploring these varied attractions. About 30km east of Robertson is the tiny, characterful town of Montagu. Here, many of the roads are dead-ends, and mountain-biking or hiking is the only way forward. The isolated tranquillity is, however, being disturbed: roadworks have been carrying on for more than two years, and the locals are getting fed up with the stop-go delays.
Boutique estate Esona offers vertical tastings in Riedel glasses, soaking up vistas from a Swiss chalet-like deck. Down the road, at Excelsior, you can make your own blend while quaffing at a cosy tasting centre perched on the farm’s lake.
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