BBC Arabic reporter Mohamed Osman has returned to his home country, Sudan, for the first time since he was forced to flee after war broke out in April, and reflects on how the country has changed.
I had come for a brief visit to Port Sudan, as my hometown, Omdurman, is still wrecked by war. My heart ached that I could not return to it. Port Sudan's airport is the only one that has opened. The rest remain shut - including the main international airport in Khartoum, as the capital city - like Omdurman across the River Nile - is hit by air strikes, gun-battles and artillery fire every day.
I spent about two weeks in Port Sudan, which has turned into the alternative capital of Sudan, with the war forcing Gen Burhan to relocate to the city as the RSF controls large parts of Khartoum, including key government buildings. Though largely peaceful, the city was hit by fighting just over a week ago when government troops tried to remove checkpoints set up by an ethnic militia.
Another restaurant owner, who specialises in "al-Aqashi," a popular meal of mostly meat grilled on thin skewers, said the war forced him to shut his business in Khartoum, and relocate to Port Sudan.
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