MORE AT 44: Chewing over bread, basics and uncommon wine

Voisin’s development has been beautifully simple, simply organic. Jaco and Sarah Smit looked at each other, not exactly in despair but in 2020 hard lockdown resignation, within their tiny flat then. Well, the rest of the world had also been paused by Covid. The Smit couple resolved then and there to eat good sourdough bread, as many other people resolved at the time. Jaco would learn to bake it well, as many others were doing too.

The new beginning at 44 Stanley included the excellent bread that Jaco baked plus what he already knew well, which was very good South African wines. So it was to be bread and wine. And who knew what else might develop organically, quite naturally. Sarah’s renewed sense of simplicity in aesthetics and design was perfect for this unfolding project.It’s how Voisin strikes me when I meet Jaco Smit.

Jaco has more truths and fine stories to tell about our unusual wines than I can write but, of the many, one stands out for me. The bottle stands here too, as I write. It looks as though the people who come in here are somehow like the shop, not flashy but considering and, hopefully, considerate. Many evince the same sort of feel or ethos. The biker in his leathers knows about these experimental, “smaller people” winemakers and is a regular. The quiet book publisher is another and the couple on their way to “the bush” with a selection of fascination in bottles for fine conversations, as well as some of the well-travelling sourdough loaves.

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