MAIN INGREDIENT: Italian rice primer: Saffron & risotto, an Italian marriage

Creamy, buttery-yellow, sensuously tender yet each grain still holding its own, a well made risotto is a splendid thing. It does not have to have that subtle yellow hue and today rarely does, but the marriage of Italian rice and saffron has been associated with risotto since at least 1809 in a recipe for rice cooked with butter, onions, stock, bone marrow, sausages and saffron. This is thought to have been used for its pigment at first, rather than its flavour and aroma.

Risotto is regarded as one of the most challenging things to cook, but it has become one of my favourite things to cook, and I no longer fear it. It was when I stopped following recipes for it, and just cooked, that I lost my fear.Risotto needs time, care and restraint. This means constant movement with a gentle touch; no violence in the pan.

What goes into a risotto? There are many options, from mushrooms or seafood to broccoli or even one in which the hero, other than the rice, is cheese. But the following are needed at the dish’s essence:Olive oil or butter. Start by oiling the base of the pan on a low heat, add the rice, drizzle more oil in, and move the rice around in the oil with a flat-edged wooden or silicone spatula so that every grain is coated.

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