JAW: Cookbooks, from patisserie to food porn

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The shift is slow but the wave is from west to east and every year Africa features more prominently in the world cookbook stakes.

If the world is a bit heavier, which it is, it is because of cookbooks. Every year hundreds, even thousands are published.

Many punt one vainglorious, celebratory vision of a new culinary world where everyone is a vegan or only eats foraged food.My ma’s put-together recipe book, with friends’ recipes written with her Sheaffer fountain pen with little anecdotes like “don’t quite boil if you want froth”, only contained four major recipes and that is what we lived on, roast chicken, fish pie, curry and apple crumble for pudding.

In some countries, a ruler’s hand has intervened to discourage certain foods. In Australia the Border Force trashed a banana. It breaks my heart to see the wonderful, exotic, semi-secret culinary delights that end up in the airport bin: tiny snails from Asia, sweet as corn, rainbow coloured fish in dark cream sauces, ribs of goat meat, silky with fat and nourishment, even a few snakes that cook up well if you know what you are doing, lots of beetles and even a honey nest of stinging bees.

And if you are a writer, the next book you should be thinking about is one on food. Our own editor Tony Jackman has himself added to this glittering pile withwas nominated for the Gourmand awards and short listed in 2018 and he was even invited to visit China. Sadly he turned down the invitation, such a pity because we could well use a few innovative suggestions beyond chop suey.

 

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