GASTROTURF: Rockin’ Cape/Moroccan: The twin spicy cuisines that book-end Africa

Think spices and world cuisines, especially from a southern African perspective, and two are likely to leap out of the pack: Moroccan cuisine, from the far north-west, and Cape cuisine, from the Tavern of the Seas in the deep south-west.

It never ceases to amaze me that visitors to Cape Town have to search for restaurants specialising in the local cuisine. They are there, but they should be in every street, every suburb. Here and there you’ll find a restaurant where a famous, award-winning chef tweaks and fiddles with traditional Cape dishes. Put another way, the dish is changed. It’s no longer what it says on the tin. And don’t get me started on the deconstructed bobotie I once had in Franschhoek.

But food brings us to the table, and at the table we join hands and minds in forging friendships and alliances, not division. So if anything can help us come together, it’s food, the cooking of it and the eating of it. Meanwhile, to the far north, there’s a world of delight for the needy palate to be found in the vibrant, zinging flavours of Morocco and, for that matter, neighbouring Tunisia. I tried my hand at making chermoula the other day, and harissa, with results that delighted me. One of those occasions when something you’ve never tried before comes out just right.

In a pan over a low flame, toast the cumin, coriander and caraway seeds until they start to crackle, and then grind to a powder. I used the grinder part of a blender.

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