Exploring the wild, wonderful Wales from the cosmopolitan Cardiff to the glorious Gower

FOLLOW THE LEAD ER. With the right local guide you can get far away from the madding crowd. Picture iStock and Brendan Seery

That perhaps wasn’t always so, for, while the city was the hub of trade in the country’s rich raw materials, headed by coal, it always had a grimy grubby look, in my mind’s eye at least. Wales, with its closed coal pits and tiny, tenement-like miners’ houses cramped against the sides of valleys, was worst hit – visually and financially.The Valleys still feel the after-effects in high unemployment and substance abuse. Ironically, the benefit of being members of the EU was yet to be felt.

The well-heeled from London have started what the wealthy all over the world have been doing: buying holiday homes in the country or in seaside villages. You can see why. Rhosilli Bay, on the day we visit, is lashed with wind and rain, counter-intuitively making it attractive in a sort of forboding, bleak way.

SUMMER SNOW: Like many, thousands of people climb Wales’s highest mountain, Snowdonia, every day in summer

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