DIY fermentation: confessions — and recipes — of a culture vulture

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From onion-chilli paste to grasshopper garum, there are many adventures to be had spiking food with time and microbes

Like all the most dangerous habits, mine started with a youthful experiment: a funky Tunisian concoction called hrous, which comes from the edge of the Sahara.

I was led to it by that peerless gastronomic explorer Paula Wolfert and her Mediterranean Cooking, a take-you-there book that was published in 1977, a year when toothpicks were still commonly used to impale pineapple and cheese.A subscription helps you enjoy the best of our business content every day along with benefits such as exclusive Financial Times articles, ProfileData financial data, and digital access to the Sunday Times and Times Select.

 

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