Quite recently, Henry Zankov, the talented designer of all things knit-y and sweater-y of the label Zankov, saw the Sophie Calle exhibition at the Musée Picasso in Paris. A quote on the wall caught his eye. “It’s really beautiful,” he said the other week at a preview of his fall 2024 collection at his live and work space in Brooklyn. “It goes something like this: ‘I bought a house just so I could bury my sweater here.
Given the kind of emotional connection that was at work here—the depth of feeling for what he is designing and for what you might want to wear—Zankov named this collection Hold Me Closer. “I wanted that sensation of being hugged, of having someone to be in your clothes with you,” he said. “It’s also that feeling of protection, but at the same time, I don’t want the wearer to feel overwhelmed.
Zankov opened his presentation with a chunky scarlet knit worn to slip-slide off the body, teamed with a fuzzy textured skirt in dusky pink. From then on, we had the uber-light merino wool paneled oversized sweaters in ochre or purple. Burnt orange was used for a robe coat and a dress with a matching oversized scarf with pockets, all magicked up from a yarn that had been knitted twice over.
Inspiration-wise, he might have been looking to artist Nathalie du Pasquier, who also cofounded the Memphis group. Looking to her work inspired him to use gray for the first time, to add to his own richly original palette. The lean lanky shapes came from the kind of clothes favored by the French chanteuse Barbara, renowned for her gamine crop and risqué lyrical content.
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