Angelica's care and technique also happen to make the recipe ideal for making ahead, for a small gathering all the way up to restaurant-scale. The green beans can be trimmed and blanched in batches earlier in the week. Even the sofrito—in this instance, a deeply savory, three-allium base of white onion, scallion, and garlic—can be prepped ahead, too.
And then, whenever you’re ready to serve—you’re nudging people toward the table, someone is carving the roast beast—you quickly sizzle the sofrito, tumble in your blanched beans, andmake a flour-thickened cream sauce or track down a can of cream of mushroom soup or do any other backflips. Instead,to bubble down and carry the sofrito into a very light, very flavorful swaddle to hug the beans.
So many other cookbooks and teachers have trained me to fear letting milk boil, and it turns out I really shouldn’t. For one thing, milk is much more stable than I’d ever given it credit for. As you can see in the video above, you can let milk simmer for a good while without it breaking, as long as there isn’t a strong acid present . And for another, even if it did boil to its breaking point—what could be wrong with cheese? Curds are delicious. Whey is delicious.
With this freedom, thanks to Maricel and Angelica, the joys of creamy sauces no longer require commitment or heft. They can happen anytime—Thanksgiving or tonight—and be as light and flavorful as we want them to be.
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