“My last collection was about my childhood and my own experiences, but this time I wanted to do the opposite and explore something I had never experienced before: the so-called luxury world.” So said Yohei Ohno after his fall show, which took place inside Tokyo’s Sen-Oku Hakukokan Museum. For a kid who grew up in the Japanese countryside, away from any sense of glitz and glamor, it was an exercise in addressing luxury as an alien concept.
The clothes––toweled bathrobes, comfy tracksuits, silk blouses, and dramatic dresses––showed the naive ideals of what Ohno interpreted as a moneyed lifestyle. “It’s about the life of the rich as seen from the perspective of a non-rich person, and the adult world as seen from a child’s perspective,” he explained. Coats swept asymmetrically to the side, cascades of fabric slung over the arm: a caricature pose of what Ohno imagined as a wealthy woman carrying a handbag.
He’d also taken a cheeky snipe at what he saw as a peculiarly Japanese ideal of luxury, and referenced Burberry Blue Label—a now defunct brand in Japan that licensed the designs of the British company, often to questionable effect—as another ironic point of reference. “I wanted to make fun of the sense of luxury that Japanese people have. I wonder why everyone is trying to imitate European luxury brands,” he said.
Overall he’d given himself a tough concept to reckon with, and it wasn’t clear by the end of the show if he’d properly worked it out, but Ohno has an undeniably unique point of view that is always a pleasure to witness.
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