Weaving through the twisted, labyrinthine streets of Vilnius offers visitors to the Lithuanian capital a lesson in history. Adjacent to the city’s medieval center, beautifully intricate baroque buildings will suddenly give way to splashes of brutal Soviet-style architecture as well as more familiar modernism.
, and a favorite stop is the farmers market, Tymo Turgus, on the Vilnia River. It’s not as hip as the indoor Halės Market, but Tymo is where the action is.I’m here in June, and it’s a pleasantly warm summer’s day. A queue has formed at a stall for highly prized Baltic black bread. Pillow-size loaves with varying interiors of caraway, hemp seed, and linseed all share a common attribute: an almost black crust.
While the above restaurants are all great examples of new and exciting Baltic cuisine, you often need to dip into the past to understand the present. Šnekutis is a rough-and-tumble bar that serves traditional, hearty Lithuanian food, where the potato plays the starring role in myriad ways. The vibe here is gregarious, a little edgy, and an outright hoot, and the decor and food transport me to another time.
Word of the day! LOCAVORE!
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