Just before Covid-19 entered the lexicon, Nilsson closed his restaurant in December 2019, despite still being a thriving concern. In his recent book he explained there wasn’t some extenuating circumstance or financial calamity that caused Nilsson to walk away from one of the world’s most renowned restaurants. He was burned out.
Things don’t have to run forever and most things shouldn’t run forever. I had 12 years at one job and I was 36 when I left, that’s a long time—a third of my life at one job.Yeah, I observed it, and some of that is just because those traditional markers of luxury have become much more available.I have two examples here—one is historical. It’s pretty funny that sugar used to be one of the great luxuries.
Before the pandemic, it felt like lists were proliferating and the idea of these restaurants as great global dining destinations was fading. Do you think World’s 50 Best was losing influence compared to a decade ago? You realize that this is a system that can be manipulated so easily, which is one of the reasons I didn’t care about these awards. It’s nice when you get them and nice when someone acknowledges that you’ve done something. It’s great, but it’s not the driving force behind most successful restaurants. When people discovered you could play the game—you still have to have a great place, but you can actively work to get more votes—then that thing has lost all meaning to me.
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