Part of my job as a travel writer is taking tours of hotels and resorts. Usually this involves looking in on a couple of rooms, the spa and a restaurant or two—15 or 20 minutes, and then there’s time for some poolside “research.” At thein Dubai, the tour took a solid 90 minutes, and then my phone told me I’d nearly hit all my steps for the day.
This isn’t because it was boring or inefficient. The property is enormous—with more than a kilometer of private beach framing its 65 acres from end to end—and filled with stunning and sumptuous details, many of them with stories behind them. It was in fact fascinating. Among all the gleaming mosaic floors, soaring arches and perfectly framed bay views, one item stood out: a display of side-by-side photos of the resort in its early days—circa 2000—and today. In today’s photo, of course, it’s dwarfed by the towering skyscrapers of the Marina—those ones that have come to define the modern metropolis. In the vintage one, it’s out there all alone, like the oasis in the desert that it was originally conceived to be.
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