at her home in Michoacan state at the age of 99, was making tamales for a big dinner and had two young Mexican cooks helping her. She showed them how she wanted the corn husks folded around the masa — as a compact envelope with a thin husk tie. “Bonito!” she said.
“But this is the way we do it in Mexico,” one of the Mexican assistants told her as he showed her a simpler method of tucking just one end of the husk over the masa, leaving an opening on one side.Neither side would concede to the other. She continued to assemble the tamales her way while her male assistants stuck to their way.
When we grow up eating the foods of our culture — in my case, I think of my grandmother’s nopales, albondigas soup and red-tinged menudo, not to mention the thick atoles she loved to give us on cold mornings — we have an intimate relationship with what author and former Times journalist Victor Valle, with Mary Lou Valle, calledBut can this intimate relationship cloud our view of a cuisine’s possibilities? A friend and I sometimes go back and forth on what makes a proper birria — goat or beef.
Some of these questions have come up in the remembrances of Kennedy this week. Food editor Daniel Hernandez was lucky enough to visit Kennedy at her Michoacan compound.for the author who blazed her own trail and didn’t seem to give a damn about what others thought about her. To those who accuse her of cultural appropriation, he writes that “she’d meticulously credit the women originators of the recipes she’d perfect alongside them.
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