. At the time, the idea was that the ideal man was sort of this Teddy Roosevelt type, balancing refinement with a certain amount of savagery. So, like, Teddy Roosevelt could be walking around Harvard, but he could also go and kill a lion. So a beefsteak was a version of that—you get together with the other upwardly mobile men, eat vast quantities of beef, wash it down with lots of beer, and it’s very simply prepared and you get in touch with your primal side.
Is that still how you think things are now? Or do you think anything has changed in the politics of it? We are now at one of those moments of friction you talked about where we have a threat to the easy availability of meat. Trump is worried because if people go to the store and can’t buy their meat, that really personalizes theThen there’s the disruption in supply: Because meat is so personal to defining who so many people in America are, shortages will be felt very acutely. There will be a lot of energy around that.
Here’s the optimism part. I think since the 1960s and 1970s, people have been talking a bit more about how things we use get produced. I think we’re going to eventually see a moment where something like a nascent labor movement, or a reform movement, could line up with that concern and that thinking.
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