What You're Really Getting When You Buy Parmesan Cheese in America

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It's all about the provenance.

Real Food/Fake Food: Why You Don't Know What You're Eating and What You Can Do About It

Though often categorized as a hard grating cheese, Parmesan is actually semi-hard, with a texture just slightly firmer than that of aged cheddar. The body of the cheese is rich and creamy, studded with crunchy granules of calcium lactate that give it a unique, almost effervescent texture.

In 2008, European courts ruled that Parmigiano Reggiano is the only cheese that can legally be called Parmesan, a policy shift that forced cheese producers around the world to rename their products. And most of the world did so—except the US, that is. Case in point? That ubiquitous, green-capped canister of Kraft Parmesan cheese is actually labeled"Parmasello" in all of Europe and many other countries.

Given the strict laws governing ingredients, production, aging, and inspection, there is simply no such thing as mediocre Parmigiano Reggiano. Like Champagne and other Protected Designation of Origin products, it is carefully made and screened to guarantee that the baseline is, at worst, very good. From there, it soars upward to exceptional heights.

 

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