Ice cream is an unironic pleasure Photo: H. Armstrong Roberts/ClassicStock/Getty Images In the past several weeks, America has been hit with a wave of new ice-cream flavors, all of them collaborations between brands. Kraft Heinz and Van Leeuwen released a “limited edition” Macaroni & Cheese ice cream, which launched its own minor news cycle and sold out within a day. A novelty!, I thought.
To be clear: Some of these gonzo flavor collaborations are almost certainly delicious. All of them, perhaps. But that is not the reason they exist. They are marketing opportunities. Does anyone believe in Flamin’ Hot Cheetos ice cream? I want at least the illusion that some lone ice-cream artisan jolted awake one night with a vision.
It’s not that we should inherently object to ice-cream collaboration. Just look at Dairy Queen, which since 1986 has been pulverizing Heath bars, Snickers, and Oreos into its Blizzards. In fact, you could argue that ice cream is uniquely well positioned for collaboration. What can’t you mix into a semi-frozen sweet-cream soup?
Perhaps the motivation doesn’t matter, only the consequences. If the taste is right, who cares if it’s a stunt? Me, I discovered.
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rtsugar There is a big tent for all ice creams. America’s strength is in its diversity.
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