What’s so super about super foods?

to be high definition – and our food to be super. Search for the word “super” when doing an online grocery shop and you’ll be faced with an array of super berries, super seeds and super grains. Their selling point is not so much their taste but the extent to which they will enhance your health if you consume them, from increasing your muscle mass to reducing fatigue or prolonging your life. Such qualities are not mere add-ons, like cereals fortified with vitamins.

I used to think that the superfood label was simply an excuse to charge more for something. The juice of organic mangosteens – a vitamin-rich fruit from South-East Asia, similar to lychees – can sell for an exorbitant $35 or more a litre, more than ten times the price of organic orange juice, on the promise to reduce pain and boost energy.

It took nearly half a century for the idea of superfoods to gain traction. In the 1990s the most heavily touted superfoods were fruits, mainly berries, such as wild Maine blueberries and acai berries from the Amazon. For a while, pomegranate was supposedly the superfruit to beat them all. In 1999 thereported on new research suggesting pomegranate could be “effective in fighting disease and slowing ageing”.

The health benefits of many such foods remain dubious at best. Supply doesn’t necessarily keep pace with demand: there weren’t enough pomegranate trees in the world to meet the sudden surge in consumption, so a lot of the supposedly pure pomegranate juice was diluted with cheaper fruits such as apple or grape. Some of the scientific research into superfoods has been financed by the food industry itself according to Marion Nestle, a nutritionist.

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