What Happens When the Runway, and Front Row, Vanish?

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Here's a look at how Europe’s three major fashion cities rapidly adapted their show formats to suit the new mood.

After years of debating, and bemoaning, the traditional setup of the European fashion weeks — Too long! Too frequent! Too much travel! Too much pressure on designers! Too much waste! — fashion industry figures had no choice but to change, quickly.

Here, a look at how Europe’s three major fashion cities rapidly adapted their show formats to suit the new mood.Virtual front rows, wallpaper, video games, installations, films and good-old fashioned runway shows were all part of revamped Paris Fashion Weeks in the era of coronavirus. Paris Fashion Week generated the highest earned media value of the four spring 2021 fashion weeks, according to media monitoring and analysis firm DMR Group.

Balenciaga’s video game for its main fall collection, which debuted online in early September, required viewers to race against the clock through dystopian cities and fantastical forests. Viewers could inspect models in cool NASA parkas, trapeze hoodies and blown-out jeans from all angles — at the risk of running out of time.

Burberry was one of the few British brands to opt for a runway show, and did so virtually from a birch tree-filled park outside London. The show was livestreamed, there was no audience and art came in the form of a live performance piece by German artist Anne Imhof. During the event, models strutted spring 2021 graffitied trenchcoats, crystal-embellished dresses and slim tailoring.

Ermenegildo Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori chose the company’s headquarters in Trivero as the background of the brand’s first phy-gital event, with a livestreamed runway show in July, where models walked in different locations, including the factory floor, the archives and the forests of the Oasi Zegna.Engadin in the Swiss Alps and Tuscany’s Maremma beaches served as the backdrop in the spring 2021 videos produced by Plan C and Ermanno Scervino, respectively.

 

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