I don’t think I ever make the same seasoned butter to go under or over the bird’s skin. It all depends on what’s around and who’s coming for dinner. My husband doesn’t like things too spicy, but if he’s not going to be at the table, I’ll go for a harissa or hot sauce blend. If I’ve got a few small potatoes or some carrots or leeks, I might add them to the skillet.
Chunklets of dark, salted chocolate—you can chop up a favorite chocolate bar, but I make these myself by melting chocolate and salt, letting the chocolate harden and then chopping it and stowing it in the freezer for sundae daysThat’s the fully-loaded version, but you can swap or omit any of the elements, add berries, sneak in some cracked pepper to go with the salt, make a different sauce. It’s just a template, which is why I love it.
EL: A lot of people are hesitant to riff on baking recipes, but I love how your cookbooks encourage people to get creative. What advice would you give to aspiring dessert recipe off-roaders?Baking recipes are most riffable if you just fiddle around the edges. Keep the basic recipe and think about changing a spice, adding fruit or nuts, substituting a small part of the flour for cocoa or almond meal or whole wheat flour, or. Change the frosting on a cake.
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