Wellness Is Dead. Long Live the Martini.

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“Ordering a martini” has become an activity, something that someone does as much as something that someone drinks. Emily_Sundberg reports

It’s tini time. Photo: Scott Semler; Prop Styling: Adrian Ababović This article was featured in One Great Story, New York’s reading recommendation newsletter. Sign up here to get it nightly.

“You are not wrong about this martini thing,” Toby Cecchini, the owner of Brooklyn’s Long Island Bar says. “It caught everybody unaware. In the same way that years ago all these 20-year-olds were ordering old-fashioneds all of a sudden. We went from making four or five of those for older customers a year to every kid across the bar ordering old-fashioneds without any idea of what they were. I was like ‘What the hell is going on?’ and everyone was like ‘Oh, it’s this show Mad Men.

Weeks’s party-girl consensus is as follows: “Espresso martinis have been deemed basic, vodka cranberries trigger war flashbacks to the trenches of Meatpacking, and Cosmopolitans are a dead giveaway that you believe that you are Carrie Bradshaw. Martinis are for people that believe they are Carrie Bradshaw, but have enough sense to be embarrassed by it.”

But even the elegance of the classic martini service sometimes takes a backseat. I recently third-wheeled a date with Will Ryan and Emily Schultz, where they showed me a photo of a water bottle of martinis that they served at a party. It both terrified and amazed me.

 

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Emily_Sundberg There is a saying. Martinis are like nipples. Three are two many..🍸

Emily_Sundberg 'Summering' in Maine. When did that become a Verb?

Emily_Sundberg Is it...? 🥀🍸💜🤍🍸🥀

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