Welcome to the Golden Age of Masa

in 2015, restaurant critic Pete Wells described the tortillas aroma as “completely wholesome—like flowers, bread straight from the oven, and a baby’s cheek at the same time.”In the years since, Masienda has contributed two further innovations to the golden age of masa. The first, the adorably named, is a countertop mill that grinds tortillería-quality masa on demand.

“When we first started, you couldn’t even find American corn to nixtamalize!” Azcárate-Ferbel tells me in Español about her tortillería’s long journey. They wanted to get their corn as locally as possible, she says, but all the corn grown nearby in California and Washington was either a sweet corn variety or lower quality corn for animal feed. “The only organic corn that farmers were growing back then was used to feed their animals. It was hard at first.

Nuñez, who was born in northeast Mexico, believes that it’s all about respecting the region where your Mexican restaurant is located. “If we were in Mexico, we would probably use corn from Mexico, but we’re not—we’re in Austin.”For the longest time, public demand and market competition has pushed taqueros and taqueras in the U.S. to use the least expensive tortillas possible. This led to the almighty institution of $2 tacos that has dominated taquerías for the past 20 years.

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