Veronika Is a Romantic Ode to the Grand Traditions of Eastern Europe

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The coulibiac has three layers: a pink interior of salmon, a thinner ring of rice, and a crisp pastry casing. The kitchen plates the dish as a cross-section, so every component is visible. A pool of Champagne sauce and trout roe spills across the plate. Aikens also draws his inspirations from Austria and France, and in one case brings in a rare Gallic delight from the United Kingdom: soufflé suissesse. The great Roux brothers created the dish in 1965 for London’s Le Gavroche. The suissesse is a paradox: an airy dome of eggs drenched in mornay — that emulsion of bechamel and gruyere that’s the heaviest known drinkable liquid in the universe.

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