‘Unsuitable’ Traces the Lost History of Lesbian Fashion

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Author Eleanor Medhurst explores the different communities, people, and periods that have left an indelible mark on queer fashion—from Sappho to the of the Harlem Renaissance.

When historian Eleanor Medhurst was studying the history of queer fashion for her masters degree from the University of Brighton, she found herself repeatedly frustrated. “I realized just how little there was about lesbian fashion history, particularly even within studies on queer fashion,” she says. After graduating, Medhurst began her blog, Dressing Dykes, which chronicles everything from carabiners to the monocle as a symbol of lesbianism in the 1920s.

Queer women, for fear of punishment, often did not advertise their sexuality, leading them to have no community; No community meant no defining fashion could emerge. “The invisibility of these communities often makes it so that trends can’t develop in the same way that they would in the mainstream,” she says, “You’re not necessarily going to know what other people in your community are doing because you can’t see them.

 

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