In fashion, as in politics these days, it often feels as if there are no adults in the room, leaving the void to be filled by spin doctors, some experts, and number crunchers. Welcome Uma Wang, whose spring collection was a show of strength inspired by nature.
A bit about the designer: Born Wang Zhi in Hebei, China, she studied in Shanghai at Donghua University and at Central Saint Martins. Wang formed her own label in 2009 and became the first Chinese designer to show on the European fashion calendar, paving the way for others, and in 2012 became a member of La Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Feminine.
Presented digitally, Wang’s spring 2023 collection, like many others, was inspired by the possibility of travel following lockdowns, and the force and magnetic pull of nature. The designer experienced that firsthand during a recent visit to North Africa. The neutral palette conjured the serene eternity of desert sands; coffee dye gave an earthiness to some of the materials. The second look was created from one length of a metal and cotton fabric that resembles tree bark. Sheer nylon was used, said Wang on a call, to evoke “a white cloud in the sky.
In her show notes, Wang wrote of nature existing beyond boundary and taboo; she associates wilderness with freedom . The humility one feels in the face of the natural world finds a parallel in the designer’s respect for textiles and craft, but otherwise this collection, which showcased Wang’s formidable talents, celebrated the power of a woman, giving her the option to stand strong, proud, free with the sturdiness of a tree or the gentleness of a cloud.
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