the viral takeaway trend, and its negative response, is missing key cultural and historical context. For Hui, Chinese takeaway isn’t disrespecting traditional food. Instead, it’s a story — her family’s story — of immigration and perseverance.
“What’s been really annoying is these really rude comments saying ‘This food is gross’ or beige or ‘this isn’t the Chinese food that I’ve come to know and love.’ But I think a lot of people just miss the whole context and history of it,” Hui says. “Old Chinese takeaways in the U.K. were booming post-war, in the 1950s and the 1960s, and took over old fish and chip shops. That’s why you get a lot of English dishes like chips, battered sausages, and pies alongside fried rice and chow mein.
Hui’s knowledge of U.K. takeaway isn’t just surface level. Her parents started their own South Wales take-out shop in 1988, which they ran for almost 30 years before they retired in 2018. Hui grew up working behind the counter, an experience that eventually gave birth to her 2019 memoirthat seeing such frustrating and misinformed takes on U.K.
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