Tuscan Wine Icon Luce Della Vite Celebrates Its 25th Anniversary Vintage With Their Excellent 2017

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To mark this quarter-century milestone, and to explore the roots of this iconic wine, I sat down to a Zoom conversation—and, of course, a glass of wine—with Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi.

In 2004, when Constellation purchased Robert Mondavi Winery, Frescobaldi bought back the remaining 50% of the shares of Luce della Vite, but decided to keep “this jewel on its own,” labeling the bottle simply as Luce della Vite and not including any reference to either of the founding families. He wanted “to have Luce sit on its own, and be independent.”Over the years, it has remained a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, though of course those percentages change vintage to vintage.

Frescobaldi feels that Merlot—which thrives in more clay-rich pockets—provides Luce’s appeal in its youth, whereas Sangiovese brings the lion’s share of aging potential. Yet he firmly believes that even the most age-worthy wine should provide pleasure in its youth, as well. “You’re going to wait ten years [to open that bottle]?” he asked hypothetically. “I ain’t got time.”

He added, “I want to enjoy that bottle everytime that I open” it. Because wine, he said, has so be good everytime you pop the cork. “A great site is able to do great wines when they’re youngThe 2017 Luce della Vite is a delicious example. It’s absolutely beautiful on the nose, opulent and ripe, with spice cake and sweetly spiced plums, warm vanilla, and a hint of cherries and pipe tobacco.

Whenever you drink it, this is a great wine, and a fantastic example of what Frescobaldi is going for with Luce della Vite: A red that is irresistible already, that expresses its place of origin with clarity and terrific appeal, but that also has the stuffing to age gracefully. It’s a fitting wine to mark the 25th anniversary of the iconic Super-Tuscan.

“I hardly believe 25 years ago that this started,” Frescobaldi said. It will be fascinating to see what the

 

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TUSCAN ARIZONA OR TULSA OKLAHOMA

Tuscan wine doesn’t have weird stuff in it. Not bad.

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