In general, it was difficult to engage the graduate students in conversation, either about Neolithic man or about archeology. The Kurdish workers, however, loved to talk. One day, a few of them started looking through my copy of a monograph on Göbekli Tepe. They reminisced about the order in which the reliefs in the photographs had been discovered, who had been there and who hadn’t. They made fun of one of their friends who had been photographed with an enormous black beard.
“It’s beautiful, actually,” one of them said. “It’s a beautiful thing. When you first find a pillar, when the top of the stone is just visible—first you ask yourself, What animals will be on it? Then you dig and dig, slowly, bit by bit, because you know that by digging you’re causing damage. Slowly, always slowly. But sometimes you can’t contain yourself—you think, Let’s just quickly look and see what’s there.” He paused.
The first survey of Göbekli Tepe was begun in 1963, by Peter Benedict, an archeologist from the University of Chicago, who described the site as “a complex of round-topped knolls of red earth,” two of which were surmounted by “small cemeteries,” probably dating from the Byzantine Empire.
Nowadays, Schmidt usually spends the morning at Göbekli Tepe, while Çiĩdem works at the house. Schmidt and the students, bearing several large bags of Neolithic detritus, return to Urfa for a late lunch—the Schmidts keep an excellent Turkish cook—and everyone spends the rest of the afternoon at the house, processing the day’s finds, which are sorted among various buckets and rectangular sieves in the courtyard.
Schmidt sees no continuity between the Neolithic hunter-gatherers and any more recent culture. At one point, I asked about an Indian astronomer’s interpretation of the Göbekli Tepe iconography in terms of the Vedas, which date back to the Bronze Age. Could the bas-relief of the headless man, the vulture, and the round object represent the bird Garuda carrying the sun across the sky? “I wouldn’t exclude this possibility, but it’s a very, very low probability,” Schmidt said.
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