Tom Ford Takes the Subway

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“[Tom Ford’s] collection showed a lot more confidence, beginning with the opening trio of long, lightly gathered skirts (with side pockets) worn with sleeveless T-shirts,” CathyHoryn reviews Tom Ford, The Row, Vaquera, and more from NYFW

Photo: Shutterstock Who doesn’t get the willies descending into an abandoned subway station on the Bowery, with only one obvious exit? “Are you one of those people whose first thought was to see how you’ll get out in a fire?” an editor, grinning, asked me last night at Tom Ford’s show, held on the platform.

By contrast, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen presented their line, The Row, in the solemn atmosphere of their showroom. But considering the rather spiritless results, maybe they should consider venturing out more. Tom Ford Photo: Shutterstock As for the glossy breastplates worn by Gigi Hadid and others, they’re in molded plastic, their colors inspired by Jeff Koons’s balloon dogs. Just as there is nothing new about showing in a subway — Martin Margiela did it 30 years ago, in Paris — so too does the breastplate have a long history. Saint Laurent, for one, showed them. Still, Ford’s considered reduction of the elements — the lines, the materials — and his timing makes the style feel fresh.

 

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