Tom Ford RTW Spring 2020

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Tom Ford, the man who gave us $15,000 crocodile coats and $50 lipsticks, showed his new collection in a subway station.

Tom Ford, the man who gave us $15,000 crocodile coats and $50 lipsticks, showed his collection in a subway station.

Ansel Elgort, Russell Westbrook and an incognito Miley Cyrus came along for the ride, descending a steel cage stairwell to Ford’s velvet underground: the most cinematic-looking subway station you have ever seen, bathed in violet light. Ballskirts and muscle T-shirts set the tone for the collection, which had models in teased-up faux-hawks stalking the dimly lit subway platform. But those muscle Ts were no joke; with sculptural drape and rolled sleeves, they were as studied as a matinee idol’s. And the ballskirts, slightly deflated, weren’t too precious for late-night shenanigans either.

Ford nodded to Halston with draped gowns, though they were more sport- than screen-goddess — like something you’d put on for dinner at home, rather than for a red carpet. The casual athleticism continued through to leather dolphin shorts, track suits and bomber jackets that even in the underground fog looked soft as butter.

 

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