Class has just begun on a recent Thursday at UCLA, and professor Amy Rowat and her students are watching as chef Vinh Nguyen sets up a table with a portable gas stove, a pot filled with water, a bowl of flour and a stack of chopsticks.For the next hour, Nguyen demonstrates how to make wontons and scallion pancakes, discussing issues of temperature and texture, gluten and fat, while Rowat and her students ask questions.
Every week, she brings in a guest to talk to her class — past visitors include baker Zoe Nathan of Huckleberry, farmer Barbara Spencer of Windrose Farms and Animal chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo — about topics such as emulsification and terroir. In-class experiments have included baking pies in toaster ovens. And every year there’s a “scientific bake-off,” where the students present their independent projects.
At the lab a few hours after the dumpling class, the students regroup to discuss emulsions, doing experiments with cups, syringes, oil, water, food coloring and lecithin .“We started off doing just apple pies, but then we expanded in subsequent years to challenge the students to bake any kind of pie. So then there was the emergence of the cream pie,” says Rowat, sounding as if she’s considering a historical timeline.
“Recipes for baking are like equations,” says Rowat, which neatly sums up the idea behind her class — to use the structures of ordinary life to teach sometimes advanced scientific concepts.Learning to bake with Huckleberry's Zoe Nathan »
I've only eaten them!
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