This Is How We Roll (Yule Logs)

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Bûche season.

For the uninitiated, bûche de noël—that is to say, Yule log—is a classic European holiday dessert, popular in Belgium and France, that involves a cake rolled up tightly and frosted to look like something you'd throw into the fireplace on Christmas Eve. baked in a jelly-roll pan and then rolled up tightly around a filling.

Luckily there's a hack for that. The colder and more brittle the cake gets, the greater the chances of it breaking when you roll it up. The key, therefore, is to roll the cake into a roulade shape while it's still hot. Here's how it goes: you take your genoise out of the oven. Run an offset spatula or thin knife around the edges to loosen the cake from the pan.Photo by Chelsea Kyle, Food Styling by Rhoda Boone

Put a cutting board—the same size or larger, please—on top of the cake. Then, using pot holders, invert the cake onto the board, tap it out of its pan, and peel off the parchment. If you don't have a big enough board, or you're a bit of a daredevil, you can just flip the cake directly onto the countertop; the key is to flip boldly and swiftly, and have the courage of your convictions. Don't hesitate.

Leave this to cool completely. When you unroll it to add the filling, the cake will want to hold the shape you've formed it in around the kitchen towel, so once you've filled it, it'll roll right back up easily, leaving you plenty of time to master those, gulp, marzipan mushrooms.

 

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