Even before the waves of crisis that engulfed the last two years, even while his restaurant Lasa was settling into pre-pandemic success, Chase Valencia was thinking about Filipino-style rotisserie and how he might serve his favorite versions to Angelenos.
COVID-19 of course changed everything. Chase and his brother Chad Valencia, Lasa’s co-owner and executive chef, went into survival mode. They’d begun the venture in 2016 as a pop-up in Unit 120, a restaurant incubator space in Chinatown’s Far East Plaza spearheaded by Alvin Cailan of Eggslut. A year later, Lasa settled into the address long-term. Chad’s cooking became the city’s lodestar for modern Filipino cuisine.
The loss of Lasa’s singular expression of Filipino cooking still reverberates, and at once the casual, communal, still-evolving aura of Lasita feels exactly right to the moment. There’s a meatless version of sisig made with mushrooms; combine it with a warming coconut-kabocha curry and long beans in a gentle tamarind-tamari glaze for a satisfying vegan feast.
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