This Creamy Uni Pasta Is the Carbonara of the Sea

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It's worth investing in some sea urchin for a real weeknight treat.

For creamy sea urchin pasta recipes, the typical process is to sauté garlic, shallots, and chilies in olive oil, then add the pasta and pour in a sauce made from raw sea urchin roe blended with softened butter or heavy cream. It's then cooked just long enough for the sauce to heat through and thicken, taking on a rich, glossy sheen.

The Sicilian idea of adding wine to the garlic-and-oil base was a step in the right direction. I tried it with a Pinot Grigio, a dry vermouth, and a dry sake. The wine and sake were both great; the vermouth will do in a pinch if it's all that's in your cabinet at the moment. I even tried it with a splash of a $6 dry California rosé, and it was still tasty!

The texture of Mexican crema is thinner than that of regular American sour cream, but it also has a more distinct tang to it. It helps that most major brands, like Cacique and Marquez Brothers, contain small amounts of gums and thickeners that allow the crema to retain a creamy, glossy texture even at higher temperatures.

Some recipes include umami-boosting ingredients, like anchovies, soy sauce, and miso paste. I didn't find any of them to be necessary, since uni has such a powerful savory flavor on its own, though all made interesting variations.

 

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