No other parking lot in east Bakersfield is this full. It’s just past noon on an early October Friday. A breezy hint of fall weather washes through the center of town, and those who are headed down 19th Street, an arterial road from downtown to the east side, are doing so slowly and with their windows down, taking in a clear valley day.
It was eventually decided that the Fresno couple was second cousins with the Maitia family. “We’re all a little related,” Coscarart confirmed, smiling. Poncetta concurs, noting the matriarchal tradition of the restaurant is not by accident. “Grace from Noriega’s, she took care of everyone,” she explained. “She taught my mother when the sheepherders came in, it wasn’t just about food or shelter. They took them to doctors’ appointments, the consulate when they got their passports renewed.
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