For those who need convincing that fashion is a form of art, Daniel Roseberry's designs for Maison Schiaparelli offer a persuasive argument.
When the then-33-year-old Roseberry, from Plano, Texas, was appointed artistic director of Schiaparelli, he became the first -- and to date, only -- American to lead a French couture house. He was hardly a household name at the time. Trained at New York's Fashion School of Technology, and with 10 years at Thom Browne under his belt, he had the credentials, certainly, but no experience at the helm of a luxury fashion house, no formal training in haute couture and no spoken French.
. At the height of the Surrealist movement, the silk organza dress with a large lobster sketched onto the skirt was a symbol of the times -- and remarkably avant-garde.But Schiaparelli's progressive designs didn't keep her out of the mainstream.
Roseberry has clearly spent time getting to know the house and the legacy of its founder. He's well versed in Schiaparelli's life, her contributions to the industry and her archive. He's respectful of the history but is also focused on building his own creative language -- the new"codes," as he calls them.
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There was nothing appealing about that large bird dress, absolutely nothing.
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