The Uncertain Future of Portuguese Cuisine

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“Without visitors, our gastronomy is at serious risk.” — Universidade Nova de Lisboa professor Paulina Mata

After decades of obsessing over French and Italian cooking, young Portuguese chefs were finally catching onto the global trend of gastronomic self-reflection: valuing the indigenous ingredients, techniques, and recipes of one’s own country with the same reverence given to Escoffier for most of the previous century.

Since March, the early days of the epidemic in Portugal, hotel bookings were down by nearly 50 percent compared to the same month last year, and 24,000 fewer flights were registered at Portuguese airports. The European Union will continue to suspend all flights to and from countries outside the common space until at least June 15 , and the estimate is that the tourist flow will be dramatically affected for many months, if not years.

Chef António Galapito of Lisbon’s acclaimed Prado fears that the crisis could force cooks and restaurant owners to seek out cheaper alternatives for their menus, sourcing lower quality ingredients from purveyors outside Portugal. “Many are starting to use cheaper Vietnamese clams, for example, to prepare dishes such as carne de porco à alentejana,” he says, referring to the Portuguese pork-and-clam favorite.

“It took us some time to be recognized,” Amado says. “When the investments came, people realized that the country had good producers and ingredients, good chefs, and great restaurants. It helped the world to understand what Portugal really was.” So while many experts believe Europe will be among the last geographic regions to regain its status as a travel destination, Portugal’s lower barrier to entry might once again help it rebound sooner than the rest of its neighbors.

 

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Best_of_PT I'm not a tourist but I'm willing to do my best at eating Pastel de Natas! Every little helps!

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