The Swirly, Brain-Freezing Origins of the Frozen Margarita Machine

When Mariano opened his own restaurant, he repurposed his father’s recipe, with fresh lime, 100 percent agave tequila, Cointreau , simple syrup, and a salted rim.

The interior looks like a cavernous hunting lodge with log walls, wagon wheel chandeliers, and a small ecosystem of taxidermied animals mounted in the dining room. It’s spaghetti Western elegant, or as Google describes it, “caballero-chic.” Front and center is the horseshoe bar and the prized frozen margarita machines.

Mariano’s was serving top-notch Tex-Mex staples before the term “Tex-Mex” really existed. According to Texas food historian Robb Walsh’sAs Mariano tells it, many American restaurateurs wanted to distance themselves from the Mexican label altogether, projecting onto it a negative connotation. Instead, they marketed their food as “Spanish” or “Sonora-style.” But with his restaurant, Martinez embraced it. Some customers started to believe Mariano’s was more Mexican than actual Mexican food.

“I would think it was more persistence than confidence. And perseverance,” Mariano told me. “Go back to my school days. My family was doing just well enough to move into an all-white neighborhood, and I suffered a lot of racism and bigotry.” It was only a matter of time before the frozen concoction caught on. Mariano tells me, “I started getting all these write-ups in the newspapers and interviews on television, and then people started getting their own margarita machines.” His invention popped up in bars and restaurants all over the country, and pretty soon, the world. And, as often happens, the original formula was diluted.Over the years, frozen margaritas have developed a bad rap, particularly within serious mixology circles.

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