The Summer Crab Became the New Caviar

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In what has been called the worst year for crab on record, crustaceous scarcity forced D.C. restaurants to do more with less (Via Eater_DC)

After COVID-19 vaccines became widely available and D.C. lifted indoor dining restrictions, seafood restaurants around the city were looking forward to a summer boom. But for businesses that depend on blue crab, perhaps the most prized product found in Chesapeake waters, the party never started.made many professional kitchens alter their approach to selling crab — and caused some to cut it from their menus entirely.

Other supply problems have pushed Kitchen Cray to switch from chicken thighs to breasts, and to add oxtail into some rice dishes. Shrimp prices are about the same, so that’s making more appearances, too. “As long as it tastes good and [is] not killing people’s pockets,” Robinson says. No Goodbyes writes menus based on what Chesapeake products it can bring in. When jumbo lump crab meat became too expensive for the restaurant to serve crab cakes, chef Opie Crooks began making lump crab croquettes .Restaurants that serve whole steamed crabs had to alter their business strategy, too. At 60-year-old Bethesda Crab House, prices for all-you-can-eat feasts held steady all summer, starting at $70 per person for small crabs and ballooning to $160 for XLs.

“It’s just a down year overall, and then add in the fact you have shortages of labor, transportation, and crabs,” Jablonski says. “I think everyone was anticipating it, but my opinion is no one was ready.”

 

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